第18章

类别:其他 作者:William Dean Howells字数:5025更新时间:18/12/22 09:09:46
Theirabsencewasplausiblyexplained,thenextmorning,bytheyoungGermanfriendwhocameintoseetheMarchesatbreakfast。HesaidHamburghadbeensolongafreerepublicthatthepresenceofalargeimperialgarrisonwasdistastefultothepeople,andasamatteroffacttherewereveryfewsoldiersquarteredthere,whethertheauthoritieschosetoindulgethepopulargrudgeornot。Hewashimselfinajoyfulflutterofspirits,forhehadjustthedaybeforegothisreleasefrommilitaryservice。Hegavethemanotionofwhattheraptureofamanreprievedfromdeathmightbe,andhewasasradiantlyhappyintheillhealthwhichhadgothimhisreleaseasifithadbeenthegreatestblessingofheaven。Hebubbledoverwithsmilingregretsthatheshouldbeleavinghishomeforthefirststageofthejourneywhichhewastotakeinsearchofstrength,justastheyhadcome,andhepressedthemtosayiftherewerenotsomethingthathecoulddoforthem。 Yes。”saidMrs。March,withapromptnesssurprisingtoherhusband,whocouldthinkofnothing;“telluswhereHeinrichHeinelivedwhenhewasinHamburg。Myhusbandhasalwayshadagreatpassionforhimandwantstolookhimupeverywhere。” MarchhadforgottenthatHeineeverlivedinHamburg,andtheyoungmanhadapparentlyneverknownit。Hisfacefell;hewishedtomakeMrs。 MarchbelievethatitwasonlyHeine’sunclewhohadlivedthere;butshewasfirm;andwhenhehadaskedamongthehotelpeoplehecamebackgladlyowningthathewaswrong,andthatthepoetusedtoliveinKonigstrasse,whichwasverynearby,andwheretheycouldeasilyknowthehousebyhisbustsetinitsfront。TheportierandtheheadwaitersharedhisecstasyinsoeasilyobligingthefriendlyAmericanpair,andjoinedhiminminutelyinstructingthedriverwhentheyshutthemintotheircarriage。 TheydidnotknowthathiswasalmosttheonlylaughingfacetheyshouldseeintheseriousGermanEmpire;justastheydidnotknowthatitrainedthereeveryday。Astheydroveoffinthegraydrizzlewiththeunfoundedhopethatsoonerorlatertheweatherwouldbefine,theybadetheirdriverbeveryslowintakingthemthroughKonigstrasse,sothatheshouldbynomeansmissHeine’sdwelling,andhedulystoppedinfrontofahousebearingthepromisedbust。Theydismountedinordertorevereitmoreattheirease,butthebustproved,byanironybittererthanthesick,heart-breaking,brilliantJewcouldhaveimaginedinhiscruelestmoment,tobethatoftheGermanMilton,therespectablepoetKlopstock,whomHeineabhorredandmockedsopitilessly。 Infactitwasherethatthegood,much-forgottenKlopstockdwelt,whenhecamehometolivewithacomfortablepensionfromtheDanishgovernment;andthepilgrimstothemistakenshrinewentaskingaboutamongtheneighborsinKonigstrasse,forsomemannerofhousewhereHeinemighthavelived;theywouldhavebeenwillingtoacceptaflat,oranysortoftwo-pairback。Theneighborsweresomewhatmovedbytheanxietyofthestrangers;buttheywerenotsomuchmovedasneighborsinItalywouldhavebeen。Therevasnoeagerandsmilingsympathyinthelittlecrowdthatgatheredtoseewhatwasgoingon;theywerepatientofquestionandkindintheirhelplessresponse,buttheywerenotgay。 ToamantheyhadnotheardofHeine;eventheownerofasausageandblood-puddingshopacrossthewayhadnotheardofhim;theclerkofastationer-and-bookseller’snexttothebutcher’shadheardofhim,buthehadneverheardthathelivedinKonigstrasse;heneverhadheardwherehelivedinHamburg。 Thepilgrimstothefraudulentshrinegotbackintotheircarriage,anddrovesadlyaway,instructingtheirdriverwiththerigiditywhichtheirlimitedGermanfavored,nottoletanyhousewithabustinitsfrontescapehim。Hepromised,andtookhiscourseoutthroughKonigstrasse,andsuddenlytheyfoundthemselvesinaworldofsucheldandquaintnessthattheyforgotHeineascompletelyasanyofhiscountrymenhaddone。 Theywereinsteepandnarrowstreets,thatcrookedandturnedwithnoapparentpurposeofleadinganywhere,amonghousesthatlookeddownuponthemwithanastonishedstarefromtheleaden-sashedwindowsoftheirtimber-lacedgables。Thefacadeswiththeirlatticesstretchinginbandsquiteacrossthem,andwiththeirsteeproofsclimbinghighinsuccessionsofblinkingdormers,weremorerichlymediaevalthananythingthetravellershadeverdreamtofbefore,andtheyfeastedthemselvesupontheunimaginedpicturesquenesswithaleisurelyminutenesswhichbroughtresponsivegazerseverywheretothewindows;windowsweresetajar;shopdoorsweredarkenedbycuriousfiguresfromwithin,andthetrafficofthetortuousalleyswasinterruptedbytheirprogress。Theycouldnothavesaidwhichdelightedthemmore——thehousesintheimmediateforeground,orthesharphighgablesintheperspectivesandthebackground;butallwerelikethepaintedscenesofthestage,andtheyhadapleasantdifficultyinrealizingthattheywerenotpersonsinsomeromanticdrama。 TheillusionremainedwiththemandqualifiedtheimpressionwhichHamburgmadebyhermuch-trolleyedBostonianeffect;bythedecorousactivityandParisianarchitectureofherbusinessstreets;bytheturmoilofherquays,andtheinnumerablemastsandchimneysofhershipping。Attheheartofallwasthatquaintness,thatpicturesquenessofthepast,whichembodiedthespiritoftheoldHanseaticcity,andseemedtheexpressionofthehome-sideofherhistory。Thesenseofthisgainedstrengthfromsuchslightstudyofherannalsastheyafterwardsmade,andassistedthedigestionofsomemorselsoftoughstatistics。 IntheshadowofthoseGothichousesthefactthatHamburgwasoneofthegreatestcoffeemartsandmoneymartsoftheworldhadaromanticglamour;andthefactthatinthefouryearsfrom1870till1874aquarterofamillionemigrantssailedonhershipsfortheUnitedStatesseemedtostretchanerveofkindredfeelingfromthosemediaevalstreetsthroughthewholeshabbylengthofThirdAvenue。 Itwasperhapsinthisglamour,orthisfeelingofcommercialsolidarity,thatMarchwenttohavealookattheHamburgBourse,inthebeautifulnewRathhaus。Itwasnotundergoingrepairs,itwastoonewforthat; butitwasinconstruction,andsoitfulfilledthefunctionofapublicedifice,inwithholdingitsentireinterestfromthestranger。HecouldnotgetintotheSenateChamber;buttheBoursewasfreetohim,andwhenhesteppedwithin,itroseathimwitharoarofvoicesandoffeetliketheNewYorkStockExchange。Thespectaclewasnotsofrantic;peoplewerenotshakingtheirfistsorfingersineachother’snoses;buttheywereallwildinthetamerGermanway,andhewasgladtomountfromtheBoursetothepoorlittleartgalleryupstairs,andtoshutoutitsclamor。Hewasnotsogladwhenhelookedroundonthese,hisfirst,examplesofmodernGermanart。Thecustodianledhimgentlyaboutandsaidwhichthingswereforsale,anditmadehisheartachetoseehowbadtheywere,andtothinkthat,badastheywere,hecouldnotbuyanyofthem。 InthestartfromCuxhaventhepassengershadtheirresponsibleeaseofpeopleticketedthrough,andthesteamshipcompanyhadstillthechargeoftheirbaggage。ButwhentheMarchesleftHamburgforLeipsic(wheretheyhaddecidedtobreakthelongpulltoCarlsbad),alltheanxietiesofEuropeantravel,dimlyrememberedfromformerEuropeandays,offeredthemselvesforrecognition。Aportervanishedwiththeirhand-baggagebeforetheycouldnoteanytraitinhimforidentification;otherportersmadeawaywiththeirtrunks;andtheinterpreterwhohelpedMarchbuyhistickets,withavocabularyofstrictlyrailroadEnglish,hadtohelphimfindthepiecesinthebaggage-room,curiouslyestrangedinamountainofalienboxes。Oneofficialweighedthem;anotherobligedhimtopayasmuchinfreightasforathirdpassenger,andgavehimanillegiblescrapofpaperwhichrecordedtheirnumberanddestination。Theinterpreterandtheporterstooktheirfeeswithaprofessionaleffectofdissatisfaction,andhewenttowaitwithhiswifeamidstthesmokingandeatinganddrinkingintherestaurant。Theyburstthroughwiththerestwhenthedoorswereopenedtothetrain,andfollowedaglimpseoftheporterwiththeirhand-bags,asherandowntheplatform,stillbentuponescapingthem,andbroughthimtobayatlastinacarwherehehadgotverygoodseatsforthem,andsankintotheirplaces,hotandhumiliatedbytheirneedlesstumult。 Astheycooled,theyrecoveredtheirself-respect,andrenewedayouthfuljoyinsomeofthelong-estrangedfacts。Theroadwasrougherthantheroadsathome;butformuchlessmoneytheyhadthecomfort,withouttheunavailingsplendor,ofaPullmanintheirsecond-classcarriage。Mrs。 MarchhadexpectedtobeusedwiththeseverityontheimperialrailroadswhichshehadfailedtoexperiencefromthemilitaryontheHamburgsidewalks,butnothingcouldbekindlierthanthewholemanagementtowardher。Herfellow-travellerswerenotlavishoftheirrights,asAmericansare;whattheygot,thattheykept;andintherunfromHamburgtoLeipsicshehadseveraloccasionstoobservethatnoGerman,howeveryoungorrobust,dreamsofofferingabetterplace,ifhehasone,toaladyingracetohersexorage;iftheygotintoacarriagetoolatetosecureaforward-lookingseat,sherodebackwardtotheendofthatstage。Butiftheyappealedtotheirfellow-travellersforinformationaboutchanges,orstops,oranyofthelittlefactsthattheywishedtomakesureof,theywereenlightenedpastpossibilityoferror。Atthepointwheretheymighthavegonewrongtheexplanationswererenewedwithathoughtfulnesswhichshowedthattheiranxietieshadnotbeenforgotten。Shesaidshecouldnotseehowanypeoplecouldbebothsoselfishandsosweet,andherhusbandseizedtheadvantageofsayingsomethingoffensive: “YouwomenaresopamperedinAmericathatyouareastonishedwhenyouaretreatedinEuropelikethemerehumanbeingsyouare。” Sheansweredwithunexpectedreasonableness: “Yes,there’ssomethinginthat;butwhentheGermanshavetaughtushowdespicableweareaswomen,whydotheytreatussowellashumanbeings?” Thiswasatteno’clock,aftershehadriddenbackwardalongway,andatlast,withinanhourofLeipsic,hadgotaseatconfrontinghim。Thedarknesshadnowhiddenthelandscape,buttheimpressionofitsfewsimpleelementslingeredpleasantlyintheirsense:longlevels,denselywoodedwiththeprecise,severelydisciplinedGermanforests,andcheckeredwithfieldsofgrainandgrass,soakingunderthethinrainthatfromtimetotimevariedthethinsunshine。 Thevillagesandpeasants’cottageswerenotablyfew;buttherewashereandthereaclassicoragothicvilla,which,atonepoint,anEnglish- speakingyoungladyturnedfromherTauchnitznoveltoexplainastheseatofsomecountrygentleman;thelandwasinlargeholdings,andthisaccountedforthesparsityofvillagesandcottages。 ShethensaidthatshewasaGermanteacherofEnglish,inHamburg,andwasgoinghometoPotsdamforavisit。SheseemedlikeaGermangirloutof’TheInitials’,andinreturnforthisfavorMrs。MarchtriedtoinvestherselfwithsomeromanticinterestasanAmerican。Shefailedtomovethegirl’sfancy,evenaftershehadbestowedonheranimmensebunchofroseswhichtheyoungGermanfriendinHamburghadsenttothemjustbeforetheylefttheirhotel。Shefailed,later,onthesamegroundwiththepleasant-lookingEnglishwomanwhogotintotheircarriageatMagdeburg,andtalkedoverthe’LondonIllustratedNews’withanEnglish-