第42章

类别:其他 作者:William Dean Howells字数:5736更新时间:18/12/22 09:09:46
andtheconductor,afterreflection,decidedtoputthemdownatthepublicgarden,which,asoneofthenewestthingsinthecity,wouldmakethemostfavorableimpressionuponstrangers。Itwasinfactsolikeallothercitygardens,withthefoliageofitstrimlyplantedalleys,thatitshelteredthemeffectuallyfromthepicturesquenessofNuremberg,andtheyhadalong,peacefulhourononeofitsbenches,wheretheyrestedfromtheirjourney,andrepentedtheirhastyattempttoappropriatethecharmofthecity。 Thenextmorningitrained,accordingtoacustomwhichtheelevator-boy(flownwiththeinsolentrecollectionofasunnysummerinMilan)saidwasinvariableinNuremberg;butaftertheone-o’clocktabled’hotetheytookanobletwo-spannercarriage,anddroveallroundthecity。 Everywheretheancientmoat,thicklyturfedandplantedwithtreesandshrubs,stretchedagirdleofgardenbetweentheircourseandthewallbeautifullyold,withknotsofdeadivyclingingtoitscrevices,orbroadmeshesoftheshiningfoliagemantlingitsblackenedmasonry。A tile-roofedopengalleryranalongthetop,wheresomanycenturiesofsentrieshadpaced,andarchedthemassivegateswithheavilymouldedpiers,wheresocountlesslythefierceburghertroopshadsalliedforthagainsttheirbesiegers,andsooftentheleaguerhostshaddashedthemselvesinassault。Thebloodshedinforgottenbattleswouldhavefloodedthemoatwherenowthegrassandflowersgrew,orhereandthereapeacefulstretchofwaterstagnated。 ThedriveendedinavisittotheoldBurg,wheretheHapsburgKaisersdweltwhentheyvisitedtheirfaithfulimperialcity。FromitsrampartstheincrediblepicturesquenessofNurembergbestshowsitself,andifonehasanyloveforthedistinctivequalityofTeutonicarchitectureitisherethatmorethananywhereelseonemayfeastit。Theprospectoftowerandspireandgableisofsuchamediaevalrichness,ofsuchanaboundingfulness,thatallincidentsarelostinit。Themultitudinousroofsofred-browntiles,blinkingbrowsilyfromtheirlowdormers,pressupononeanotherinendlesssuccession;theyclustertogetheronariseofgroundandsinkawaywherethestreetfalls,buttheynowheredisperseorscatter,andtheyendabruptlyattheotherrimofthecity,beyondwhichloomsthegreencountry,mergingintheremoterblueofmistyuplands。 Aprettyyounggirlwaitedatthedoorofthetowerforthevisitorstogatherinsufficientnumber,andthenledthemthroughtheterriblemuseum,discantinginthesamegayvoiceandwiththesamesmilingaironallthemurderousenginesandimplementsoftorture。FirstinGermanandtheninEnglishsheexplainedthefearfulusesoftheIronMaiden,shewinninglyillustratedtheactionoftheracksandwheelsonwhichmenhadbeenstretchedandbroken,andshesweetlyvauntedaswordwhichhadbeheadedeighthundredpersons。WhenshetooktheestablishedfeefromMarchshesuggested,withademureglance,“AndwhatmoreyoupleaseforsayingitinEnglish。” “CanyousayitinRussian?”demandedayoungman,whoseeyeshehadseendwellingonherfromthebeginning。Shelaughedarchly,andrespondedwithsomeSlavicwords,andthendeliveredhertrainofsight-seersovertothecustodianwhowastoshowthemthroughthehallsandchambersoftheBurg。Thesewereundergoingtherepairswhichthemonumentsofthepastareperpetuallysufferinginthepresent,andtherewassomespecialpaintingandvarnishingforthereceptionoftheKaiser,whowascomingtoNurembergforthemilitarymanoeuvresthenathand。Butiftheyhadbeenintheunmolesteddiscomfortoftheirunlivablemagnificence,theirsplendorwassuchasmightwellreconcilethewitnesstothesuperiorcomfortofaprivatestationinoursnuggerday。TheMarchescameoutowningthattheyouthwhichmightoncehavefoundtheromanticgloriesoftheplaceenoughwasgonefromthem。ButsomuchofitwaslefttoherthatshewishedtomakehimstopandlookattheflirtationwhichhadblossomedoutbetweenthatprettyyounggirlandtheRussian,whomtheyhadscarcelymissedfromtheirpartyintheBurg。Hehadapparentlyneverpartedfromthegirl,andnowastheysattogetheronthethresholdofthegloomytower,hemosthavebeenteachinghermoreSlavicwords,fortheywerebothlaughingasiftheyunderstoodeachotherperfectly。 Inhissecurityfromhavingtheaffairinanywiseonhishands,Marchwouldhavewillinglylingered,toseehowhereducationgoton;butitbegantorain,Theraindidnotdisturbthelovers,butitobligedtheelderlyspectatorstotakerefugeintheircarriage;andtheydroveofftofindthefamousLittleGooseMan。ThisiswhateveryonedoesatNuremberg;itwouldbedifficulttosaywhy。WhentheyfoundtheLittleGooseMan,hewasonlyamediaevalfancyinbronze,whostoodonhispedestalinthemarket-placeandcontributedfromthebillofthegooseunderhisarmasmallstreamtotherainfalldrenchingthewetwaresofthewetmarket-womenroundthefountain,andsoakingtheircauliflowersandlettuce,theirgrapesandpears,theircarrotsandturnips,tothewateryflavorofallfruitsandvegetablesinGermany。 Theairwasveryrawandchill;butaftersupperthecloudsclearedaway,andapleasanteveningtemptedthetravellersout。Theportierdissembledanyslightwhichtheireagernessfortheonlyamusementhecouldthinkofinspired,anddirectedthemtoapopulartheatrewhichwasgivingasummerseasonatlowpricestothelowerclasses,andwhichtheysurprised,aftersome,search,tryingtohideitselfinasortofbacksquare。Theygotthebestplacesatapricewhichoughttohavebeenmortifyinglycheap,andfoundthemselves,withathousandotherharmlessbourgeoisfolk,inasortofspacious,agreeablebarn,ofadecorationbynomeansugly,andofacertainartlesscomfort。Eachseatfrontedashelfatthebackoftheseatbeforeit,wherethespectatorcouldputhishat;therewasasmallershelfforhissteinofthebeerpassedconstantlythroughouttheevening;andtherewasabuffetwherehecouldstayhimselfwithcoldhamandotherrobustGermanrefreshments。 Itwas“TheWeddingJourneytoNuremberg“uponwhichtheyhadoddlychanced,andtheyacceptedasanationaltributethecharacterofanAmericangirlinit。ShewasanAmericangirloftheadvancedpattern,andshecameandwentatapicniconthearmofaheadwaiter。SheseemedtohavenoofficeinthedramaexcepttoillustrateaGermanconceptionofAmericangirlhood,buteveninthissimplefunctionsheseemedrathertopuzzletheGermanaudience;perhapsbecauseoftheoccasionalEnglishwordswhichsheused。 Totheastonishmentofhercompatriots,whentheycameoutofthetheatreitwasnotraining;thenightwasasbrilliantlystarlitasanightcouldbeinGermany,andtheysaunteredhomerichlycontentthroughthenarrowstreetsandthroughthebeautifuloldDamenthor,beyondwhichtheirhotellay。Howpretty,theysaid,tocallthatcharmingporttheLadies’Gate! Theypromisedeachothertofindoutwhy,andtheyneverdidso,butsatisfiedthemselvesbyassigningittotheexclusiveuseoftheslimmaidensandmassivematronsoftheoldNurembergpatriciate,whomtheyimaginedtrailingtheirsilkensplendorsunderitsarchinperpetualprocession。 ThelifeoftheNurembergpatriciate,nowextinctinthecontrolofthecitywhichitbuildedsostrenuouslyandmaintainedsoheroically,isstillinsistentinallitsart。Thisexpressestheirprideatonceandtheirsimplicitywithachildishliterality。AtitsbestitisneversogoodasthegoodItalianart,whoseinfluenceisalwayspresentinitsbest。ThecoloringofthegreatcanvasesisVenetian,butthereisnosuchdemocracyofgreatnessasinthepaintingatVenice;indecorationtheartofNurembergisatbestquaint,andattheworstpuerile。 WhereverithadobeyedanacademicintentionitseemedtoMarchpoorandcoarse,asinthebronzefountainbesidetheChurchofSt。Lawrence。Thewaterspinsfromthepoutedbreastsofthebeautifulfiguresinstreamsthatcrossandinterlaceafterafancytrivialandgross;butinthebaseofthechurchthereisatime-wornGethsemane,exquisitelyaffectinginitssimple-heartedtruth。Thelongageshavemadeitevenmoreaffectingthanthesculptorimaginedit;theyhaveblurredthefacesandfiguresinpassingtilltheirfeaturesarescarcelydistinguishable;andthesleepingapostlesseemtohavedreamedthemselvesbackintothemother- marble。Itisofthesametraditionandimpulsewiththatsupremegloryofthenativesculpture,theineffabletabernacleofAdamKrafft,whichclimbsacolumnofthechurchwithin,amiracleofrichlycarvenstory; andnodoubtiftherewereaNurembergsculptordoinggreatthingstoday,hisworkwouldbeofkindredinspiration。 Thedescendantsoftheoldpatricianwhoorderedthetabernacleatratherahardbargainfromtheartiststillworshiponthefloorbelow,andthedescendantsofhisneighborpatricianshavetheirseatsinthepewsabout,andtheirnamescutintheproprietaryplatesonthepew-tops。 ThevergeresswhoshowedtheMarchesthroughthechurchwasdevoutinthepraiseofthesearistocraticfellow-citizensofhers。“Sosimple,andyetsonoble!”shesaid。Shewasaveryromanticvergeress,andshetoldthematunsparinglengththelegendofthetabernacle,howtheartistfellasleepindespairofwinninghispatron’sdaughter,andsawinavisionthemaster-workwiththelily-likedroopattop,whichgainedhimherhand。TheydidnotrealizetilltoolatethatitwasalloutofanovelofGeorgEbers’s,butaddedtotheregularfeeforthechurchagiftworthyofanineditedlegend。 EventhentheyhadapleasureinherenthusiasmrarelyimpartedbytheNurembergmanner。Theymissedtheretheconstant,sweetcivilityofCarlsbad,andfoundthemselvesfallingflatintheirendeavorsforalittlecordiality。TheyindeedinspiredwithsomekindnesstheoldwomanwhoshowedthemthroughthatcemeterywhereAlbertDurerandHansSachsandmanyotherillustriouscitizenslieburiedundermonumentalbrassesofsuchbeauty: “Thatkingstohavethelike,mightwishtodie。” Butthismusthavebeenbecausetheyabandonedthemselvessowillinglytothefascinationofthebronzeskullonthetombofafourteenth-centurypatrician,whichhadtheuncommonadvantageofalowerjawhingedtotheupper。Sheproudlyclappeditupanddownfortheirastonishment,andwaited,withatoothlesssmile,toletthemdiscoverthebeadofanailartfullyfiguredintheskull;thenshegaveashrillcackleofjoy,andgleefullyexplainedthatthewifeofthispatricianhadkilledhimbydrivinganailintohistemple,andhadbeenfitlybeheadedforthemurder。 Shecaredsomuchfornothingelseinthecemetery,butsheconsentedtoletthemwonderattherichnessofthesculptureintheleveltombs,withtheirescutcheonsandmemorialtablets,overrunbythelonggrassandthemattedivy;sheevenconsentedtosharetheirindignationatthedestructionofsomeofthebrassesandthetheftofothers。Shesufferedmorereluctantlytheirtendernessfortheold,oldcrucifixionfiguredinsculptureatonecornerofthecemetery,wheretheanguishoftheChristhadlongsincefadedintothestonefromwhichithadbeenevoked,andthethieveswerenolongerdistinguishableintheirpenitenceorimpenitence;butshepartedfriendswiththemwhenshesawhowmuchtheyseemedtakenwiththevotivechapelofthenobleHolzschuhfamily,wherealineofwoodenshoespunsuponthenameinthefrieze,likethelineofdogswhichchaseoneanother,withbonesintheirmouths,aroundtheCanossapalaceatVerona。AsenseofthebeautifulhousebytheAdigewaspartofthepleasingconfusionwhichpossessedtheminNurembergwhenevertheycameupontheexpressionofthegothicspiritcommonbothtotheGermanandnorthernItalianart。TheyknewthatitwasaneffectwhichhadpassedfromGermanyintoItaly,butintheliberalairoftheolderlandithadcometosomuchmorebeautythatnow,whentheyfounditinitshome,itseemedsomethingfetchedfromovertheAlpsandcoarsenedintheattempttonaturalizeittoanalienair。 IntheGermanicMuseumtheyfledtotheItalianpaintersfromtheGermanpicturestheyhadinspired;inthegreathalloftheRathhausthenobleProcessionalofDurerwasthemoreprecious,becausehisTriumphofMaximiliansomehowsuggestedMantegna’sTriumphofCaesar。Therewastobeabanquetinthehall,underthemightyfresco,towelcometheGermanEmperor,comingthenextweek,andtheRathhauswasfullofwork-peoplefurbishingitupagainsthisarrival,andmakingitdifficultforthecustodianwhohaditinchargetoshowitproperlytostrangers。ShewasofthesameenthusiasticsisterhoodasthevergeressofSt。Lawrenceandtheguardianoftheoldcemetery,andbyamightyeffortsheprevailedovertheworkmensofarastoleadherchargesoutthroughthecorridorwheretheliteralconscienceofthebrothersKuhnhaswroughtintherooftoanexactimageofatournamentasitwasinNurembergfourhundredyearsago。Inthisrelief,throngedwithmenandhorses,thegala-lifeofthepastsurvivesinunexampledfulness;andMarchblamedhimselfafterenjoyingitforhavingfeltinitthattoy-figurequalitywhichseemsthefinaleffectoftheGermangothicisminsculpture。